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1992-1996 Toyota Camry Timing Belt Change Procedures

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This text will present you the steps vital to interchange a timing belt on the Camry four cylinder. This restore is identical for the ninety two, ninety three, ninety four, ninety five, and ninety six yr type.

1992-1996 Toyota Camry Timing Belt Change Directions

Be sure the automotive is in Park with the emergency brake engaged in case you are doing this “on the bottom” (and not using a carry). First it would be best to disconnect the negative battery cable. This may stop any sparks or shocks which might harm each you and the automobile. Subsequent drain the coolant from the radiator. There’s a drain plug on the underside of the radiator, merely unscrew it till you get a gentle circulate into the drain pan. Don’t unscrew it too far, or it’ll fall out and you should have a river of coolant going in all places. As soon as it stops draining tighten the drain plug.

Subsequent, disconnect the wiring harness from the alternator. Now, take away the alternator. That is principally a self explanatory step. Remove the passenger aspect tire to offer you extra room. Jack the suitable front of the automotive up, place a jack stand below the automobile. Loosen the bolts that maintain the P/S (energy steering) pump to the again of the motor. I take advantage of a 20″ extension with a 12mm swivel socket to loosen the underside bolt and a pry bar to pry the pump in direction of the motor. This can put slack within the belt to be able to take away it. You now have to take away the motor mount that’s hooked up to the strut tower. You do not want to have something to assist the motor whereas remove this mount. The motor will transfer barely, however not very a lot.

With the motor mount eliminated you now have entry to the highest timing belt cowl. Remove the 10mm bolts that maintain the quilt on. Observe that these bolts additionally safe the wiring harness behind the duvet, bear in mind to place this harness again in place once you return with every little thing. Subsequent you must take away the crankshaft pulley. This may require an impression socket, and a half of” drive influence wrench. More often than not it takes a whole lot of energy to take away the crankshaft pulley bolt resulting from the truth that the bolt has in all probability not been eliminated in a while, if in any respect, and the engine’s rotation helps to maintain it tight. I want to make use of PB Blaster or Deep Creep on the bolt and let it soak for some time (10 minutes or so). You may go forward and get it soaking when you are remove different elements. When you get the bolt out you’ll normally have to get a few pry bars or very giant flat-head (commonplace) screwdrivers behind the crankshaft pulley and work it off of the crankshaft. Typically they’ll fall proper off simply utilizing your palms to “wiggle” it off. Typically you are the windshield, generally you are the bug.

With the crankshaft pulley off it’s worthwhile to take away the lower timing belt cowl. There are a number of 10mm bolts holding it on. It should require a few completely different lengths of sockets to get all of them out. As soon as the duvet is eliminated the next step is to get the motor mount bracket out of the best way. The bolts generally is a little difficult to get to. I’ve discovered the easiest way (for me) is to make use of a protracted ratchet with a brief 14mm socket, and to face in front of the automotive and entry the bolts from this angle. You may additionally attempt to take away them from the underside. With the mount bracket eliminated you now have extra entry to the timing belt and associated elements. Reinstall the crankshaft pulley bolt and tighten it by hand. This may let you rotate the motor to align the timing marks. On the crankshaft gear there’s a VERY small dimple that aligns with a mark on the motor. The mark on the motor (a small triangle) is at roughly eleven o’clock. After you line these timing marks up take a look at the camshaft gear and you will note that on one of many spokes there’s a gap. You have to use a mirror to line this gap up with the dimple on the quilt that’s behind the camshaft gear. (It’s at roughly 1 o’clock) If this gap is one hundred eighty levels from the place it ought to be you must rotate the motor 1 extra revolution on the crankshaft and it ought to now be lined up, or shut. As soon as lined up I wish to take a silver (metallic) Sharpie and make my very own mark on the camshaft gear and on the backing plate that’s behind it. You can also make this mark the place ever it’s handy for you. So long as you recognize the place your marks line up, that’s all that issues. This manner I haven’t got to make use of the mirror as usually.

After getting your timing marks aligned it is advisable find the tensioner. The tensioner clearly retains the suitable quantity of rigidity on the timing belt. You’ll find it by on the lookout for a pulley that has a spring connected to it. You will want to loosen (not take away) the bolt that holds the tensioner on. Now that the bolt is unfastened you could push the tensioner over (within the route of the spring) to take away all the rigidity from the belt. You are able to do this by hand, or use a screwdriver to push it over. Upon getting it over so far as it can go, re-tighten the bolt. This can preserve the stress off of the belt. Now you can take away the timing belt. In case you are solely going to interchange the belt, skip to step 10.

Upon getting the timing belt off, examine it. Timing belt fatigue can’t be detected, nonetheless, it’s best to search for indicators of belt harm. Are there lacking “enamel” or cuts within the belt? This may very well be an indication that a gear has sharp edges which can be reducing into the belt. In that case they might have to be changed. I ALWAYS suggest that individuals substitute all parts associated to the timing belt (camshaft/crankshaft seals, oil pump seal, water pump, and the tensioner and loafer pulleys) whereas they’re at this level. Sure it’s going to value you extra now, however it is going to prevent tremendously in the long term. You do not need to do a timing belt and every week later have the water pump, or one of many seals begin leaking. Keep in mind that a timing belt that’s contaminated with oil can have a shorter life, to not point out that the oil leak can find yourself shortening the lifetime of your motor by letting the oil stage get too low. It’s already costly and time consuming sufficient, you do not need to have to switch a timing belt any greater than you need to. When you do select to interchange all the elements associated to the timing belt you will want to take away the tensioner pulley, loafer pulley (the pulley with out the spring), the oil pump (situated at about eleven o’clock from the crankshaft). If you’ll exchange the camshaft and crankshaft seals you have to to take away the gears. We’ll begin with the camshaft gear. If you do not have a camshaft gear holder, it’s a useful gizmo to have. You possibly can attempt your native auto components shops to see in case you can hire one. I’ve additionally used about an eight” extension and positioned it by way of the “spokes” of the camshaft gear and rested it on the top of the motor. Since you’ll be turning the bolt counterclockwise you will want to position the extension on the left aspect of the gear as a result of that is the best way that it’ll rotate. Don’t fret concerning the gear shifting, you’ll be able to put it again into place later utilizing the marks you made earlier. Holding the extension tight, use a ratchet (the longer the deal with the extra leverage) and socket break unfastened the bolt and take away it.

After you have the bolt out slide the camshaft gear off of the camshaft and set it apart. I am unable to bear in mind proper off hand if you’ll need to take away the backing plate on this motor or not. If the entire seal is seen you’ll not. Nonetheless, if a few of it’s coated by the backing plate you’ll. All it’s a must to do is take away the 10mm bolts holding it on and set it apart as nicely. At this level you may have entry to the camshaft seal. It’s best to take away the seal with a seal puller. Some elements shops could hire these as effectively. In case you shouldn’t have one or are unable to get one, you should utilize a flat-head (customary) screwdriver and a hammer to get the seal out. In the event you should do it this manner be VERY cautious! If you happen to nick or reduce the camshaft it would then lower into the brand new seal, ruining it, you’ll have to use sandpaper to easy it out once more. I’ve discovered it’s best to position the screwdriver between the seal and the camshaft cap (it seems to be like a half moon with two 10mm bolts holding it down) on the pinnacle. After you have the screwdriver in place gently faucet it with the hammer to attempt to push it in between the seal and the camshaft cap. As soon as it begins moving into, proceed till it stops going any additional. Now you’ll need to GENTLY pry the screwdriver up, which is able to in flip pry the seal outwards. Be very cautious doing this. Work your method across the seal and it ought to come out. As soon as the seal is out clear out the realm. You should utilize brake elements cleaner for this (obtainable at any components retailer). Take your new seal and apply grease across the internal gap that can slide over the camshaft. If you happen to purchase a manufacturing facility seal it ought to already include the grease in it. Push the seal in evenly so far as you’ll be able to together with your fingers. You now have to “seat” it. When you’ve got a small hammer you may gently faucet the seal in place. As soon as the seal is in place reinstall the backing plate (if needed) and the camshaft gear. Reinstall the bolt into the camshaft gear tightening it the identical manner you loosened it. When you used the extension technique be aware that the extension will have to be on the precise facet since you may be turning the bolt clockwise to tighten it.

Now on to the crankshaft seal. Please observe the Woodruff key on the crankshaft. This appears like a steel half circle that sits within the crankshaft. DO NOT lose it! In case you do you’ll have to discover it or substitute it. That is what retains the crankshaft pulley/gear from rotating freely on the crankshaft. Remove the crankshaft gear can go 2 methods. Typically you possibly can simply wrap your hand round it and pull and the gear will come off. Different instances you will have to pry it off. This may be tough attributable to its location. It is a time the place you’ll have to discover what works for you with what you could have. You probably have 2 smaller, stronger screwdrivers you’ll be able to attempt to insert them behind the gear on reverse sides and “rock” them forwards and backwards. Pull one facet then the opposite. As soon as the gear is off you will have to insert a screwdriver between the seal and the engine block. Once more faucet the screwdriver in with a hammer till it stops, after which pry the seal out. Work your means across the seal doing this and it ought to come out pretty simply. Clear out the realm that the brand new seal will go in with brake components cleaner. Lubricate the seal as you probably did with the camshaft seal and push it in evenly along with your fingers so far as you possibly can. Now what I love to do is take a brief (three” or 6″) extension and a hammer and thoroughly faucet all the way in which across the seal utilizing a number of passes to seat it. DO NOT attempt to totally seat the seal with one hit. Take your time and make sluggish, comfortable faucets with the hammer. As soon as the seal is seated reinstall the crankshaft gear. You will have to faucet it on with a hammer.

Now take away the oil pump. Make an observation that the bolts on the oil pump are totally different lengths! What I love to do is ready the bolts down in relation to the place they’re on the oil pump. You could possibly additionally draw a sketch of the oil pump and place the bolts on the holes that you simply drew in your sketch. After getting the oil pump eliminated you’ll discover an O-ring. There may be additionally a gear inside that appears like a circle with a gap formed like a star. Make be aware of which aspect faces out. I at all times take this out and clear the whole lot with brake components cleaner. Generally it can take some effort to take away the O-ring. Use a screwdriver or scraper to take away it. I like to use grease to the brand new O-ring so that it’s going to keep in place throughout set up of the oil pump. Reinstall the “star” gear. Reinstall the oil pump with the bolts of their authentic places.

To take away the water pump, take away the entire bolts, once more making be aware of their lengths and areas. With the water pump eliminated you have to to take away the gasket and clear the engine block the place the brand new water pump will go. If the gasket is metallic merely pull it off, if it did not fall off already. Nevertheless, if it’s a “paper” gasket you have to to scrape off what’s caught to the engine block. Be sure to get each final little bit. If there may be any left the brand new gasket is not going to seal correctly and you’ll have a leak. Clear the world, and guarantee that it’s utterly dry. Install the brand new gasket on the water pump, and reinstall the water pump with the bolts of their authentic places. To exchange the loafer pulley, merely take away the bolt and set up the brand new pulley. To exchange the tensioner pulley take away the bolt and take away the pulley. Discover that there’s a gap in a single facet of the backing plate that a dowel sits in. This provides the pulley the flexibility to pivot to position pressure on the belt. Additionally be aware the placement and path of the spring. Install the brand new tensioner pulley on the dowel and thread the bolt. Don’t absolutely tighten the bolt but. Upon getting the bolt virtually flush, set up the spring. With the spring put in you’ll need to once more push the tensioner pulley in the direction of the spring to take away all stress to help the set up of the brand new belt. Upon getting it pushed over so far as it would go, tighten the bolt. Install the timing belt beginning with the crankshaft gear, then go over the loafer pulley and the tensioner pulley. Lastly, push the belt onto the camshaft gear. It’s best to begin at one aspect of the gear and work the belt onto the remainder. Do not put an excessive amount of of the belt on the gear to start out with, or you’ll not have sufficient slack to get the belt over the remainder of the gear. (Be aware: some individuals desire to go in a unique order than I do.) You can begin with the crankshaft pulley, go over the loafer pulley, then the camshaft gear, and at last the tensioner pulley. I want the primary methodology just because for me it’s simpler to get to the camshaft gear. Additionally bear in mind that it’s going to almost definitely take you many makes an attempt to get every little thing proper. Don’t be concerned, it’ll finally go on proper. When you pull on the belt an excessive amount of one of many gears could transfer ensuing within the engine being out of time. If this occurs, take away the belt, reset the timing marks and begin over.

As soon as the belt is in place test your timing marks once more on the camshaft pulley and crankshaft pulley. I wish to test the mark that I made on the camshaft pulley, and in addition use the versatile mirror to examine the marks on the gear and motor simply to make sure. Now loosen the bolt on the tensioner pulley to put pressure on the belt. Transfer the belt forwards and backwards to see how a lot stress is on it. If it feels too free, you’ll need to push/pry the tensioner pulley away from the spring and tighten the bolt. Test the stress on the belt once more. It’s virtually unimaginable to explain what’s correct rigidity. Too tight and it’ll cut back the lifetime of the belt, too free and it might slip, leading to improper timing. You mainly should go by really feel right here. They do make a stress gauge to verify this, however I’ve by no means seen one. As soon as every thing checks out, reinstall all the pieces within the reverse order. I might kind all of it out right here, however will probably be simpler in case you simply print it out since you will have to have it with you whilst you’re doing the work anyway. Refill the radiator with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water. (Though it might seem to be a good suggestion to make use of solely antifreeze, this truly doesn’t provide the safety to your engine that a 50/50 combine will.) Refill the coolant resevior with antifreeze. Flip the heater to scorching, and begin the automotive. (It will insure that the coolant circulates by means of the heater core, and can enable you to to fill the radiator.) Let the automotive heat up with the radiator cap off because the coolant degree will begin dropping as extra of the coolant will get circulated. Add extra of the 50/50 combine as mandatory. When it appears that evidently the radiator is full, set up the radiator cap. Await automotive to get to N.O.T. (Regular Working Temperature) and for the followers to cycle (come on after which go off) then flip the automobile off. Wait till the automotive fully cools down, this may occasionally take some time. Recheck the coolant degree in each the radiator and the coolant resevior. Prime off as needed. *DO NOT take away the radiator cap whereas the automobile is scorching. The coolant is below strain and can appear to be Previous Devoted when you take away the radiator cap, inflicting extreme burns.
[taken from ehow.com]


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